This is a fruit-forward Bourbon separation from the north of Peru. Peru has been—and continues to be—a challenge to work in; however, the potential seems boundless. In the cup we find ripe red fruits, a sweetness that pushes into preserves, and a chocolate-like structure.
Bourbon
Santa Rosa, Jaén
1,710 masl
July, 2021
Hand picked at peak ripeness. Floated to further remove defects. Depulped. Wet fermented for 24 hours. Washed. Dried on parabolic dryers for 20 days.
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We are the first to admit when we don't know much about something, and we don't know much about Peru. We have only begun to scratch the surface, and it will take many years before we have a solid understanding of what appears to be very high quality potential and very real and unique challenges. Most of what this season in Peru was, for us, a lot of looking at maps and micro climates, strategizing with our exporting partner on the ground, and tasting tons of samples. Guerrero Onias' coffees were a sample that jumped off the table.
As we begin to explore northern Peru, we have noticed a lot of old, traditional—sometimes organic—growing practices combined with a lot of high quality heirloom-type varieties such as Typica and Bourbon. This is interesting because it presents us with unique profiles from different terroir and processing techniques. There is plenty to be very excited about! However, there are also many challenges: infrastructure around drying stable, exportable coffee, actually identifying what varieties are being growing, and a smattering of lower quality Catimor varieties scattered throughout the country.
Bourbon is the most famous of the Bourbon-descended varieties. It is a tall variety characterized by relatively low production and excellent cup quality, but is susceptible to all the major coffee plant diseases. In the early 1700’s French missionaries carried Bourbon from Yemen to Bourbon Island (now Réunion), giving it the name it has today. The variety spread to other parts of the world beginning in the mid-1800’s as the missionaries moved to establish footholds in Africa and the Americas. Today, in Latin America, Bourbon has largely been replaced by varieties that descend from it—notably Caturra, Pacas, Catuai, and Mundo Novo—although Bourbon itself it is still cultivated in El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, and Peru.
The cost of getting a coffee from cherry to beverage varies enormously depending on its place of origin and the location of its consumption. The inclusion of price transparency is a starting point to inform broader conversation around the true costs of production and the sustainability of specialty coffee as a whole.